Last updated: August 10, 2026 · 6 min read
You recreate the signature S-shaped waves of the 1940s with a small to medium barrel, combined with styling gel or mousse and flat hair clips to hold each wave in place while it cools. Classic finger waves were traditionally set wet using only gel and a comb, this method uses heat for a faster result with a similar wave pattern.
Quick summary
- 1940s waves have a tight, S-shaped pattern that lies close to the head.
- A small to medium barrel gives the most defined, uniform pattern.
- Pin each wave flat right after curling, that largely determines how tight the S-shape stays.
- Leave the clips in for at least 15 to 20 minutes before removing them.
- Don't brush the result loose, gently work it apart with your fingers instead to preserve the wave.
Below you'll find the exact steps, plus which barrel size and temperature give the crispest result.
What makes 1940s waves different from regular curls or beach waves?
1940s waves, also known from the classic finger wave look, have a tight, repeating S-pattern that lies close to the head, rather than loose, random curls that fall away from your head. Where beach waves are uneven and airy on purpose, the retro look is uniform: each wave has roughly the same depth and direction.
That difference mainly comes down to technique: with beach waves you wrap loosely and sometimes skip sections, with retro waves you work tight and consistently, section by section, with a fixed setting moment (the clip) for each wave.
Step by step: creating retro waves with the Airstyler Pro Ceramiq
- Wash your hair and let it get towel-dry, or work on dry hair if you'd rather not start wet.
- Apply a firm-hold styling gel or mousse, worked through the lengths.
- Divide your hair into horizontal sections, from bottom to top, like a regular blowout.
- Wrap each section around a small to medium barrel, alternating direction per section to create the S-pattern.
- Right after curling, pin each wave flat against your head with a flat hair clip, before the hair has cooled down.
- Repeat for each section, working steadily up toward the crown.
- Leave all the clips in for at least 15 to 20 minutes, or longer for a tighter result.
- Remove the clips carefully and work the pattern loose with your fingers, not a brush.
Which barrel and temperature give the best result?
A small to medium diameter from the Airstyler Pro Ceramiq's 6-in-1 set gives the most defined wave, a larger diameter tends to produce a loose wave rather than the tight S-shape this look calls for.
The same rule of thumb applies to temperature as for other styling goals: start at 35°C or 70°C for fine to normal hair, and only use 110°C for thick or coarse hair that needs more heat to properly hold the shape.
Frequently asked questions
Is this exactly the same technique as authentic 1940s finger waves?
Not quite. Authentic finger waves were traditionally set wet with gel and a comb, without heat. This method uses a barrel and heat to achieve a similar S-shaped pattern faster, the end result looks alike but the technique isn't identical.
Which hair length works best for these retro waves?
Short to medium-length hair (up to about shoulder length) usually shows the S-pattern most clearly, since the weight of very long hair can pull the wave down faster.
How long should I leave the clips in?
At least 15 to 20 minutes, so the hair can cool completely in the pinned position. Leaving them in longer (for example while you do your makeup) usually gives an even tighter result.
Which product gives the best hold for this wave pattern?
A firm-hold styling gel or mousse works best, since the S-shape needs to stay more sharply defined than with a loose wave. A product that's too light usually doesn't give enough hold for the tight pattern.
Different barrel sizes for every wave pattern, from tight to loose.
The Airstyler Pro Ceramiq comes with multiple interchangeable, fully ceramic-coated barrels, so you can create both a tight retro wave pattern and loose beach waves with the same device.
Works on all hair types 1A-4C
2 year warranty
30 days to try at home
Trustpilot 4.7/5
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A&T
Written by Lena A., based on questions about vintage hairstyles we regularly get from customers around special occasions.
